Visagism
In
Practice
A COACHING FOR
YOUR PERSONAL
IMAGE
1st Edition
São Paulo
Robson
Amauri Trindade
2017
2017 by Robson Amauri Trindade
All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means,
mechanical or electronic, including photocopy, recording, or any other type of
storage and transmission system without prior authorization by the author.
Trindade, Robson
Visagism in Practice: A Coaching for
Your Personal Image
Robson Amauri Trindade
São Paulo: 2017.
16 p.; il.
ISBN
1. Visagism; 2. Image; 3. Style; 4. Language
About the Author
Robson Trindade began his career at the
age of 16, following in the footsteps of his mother and motivated by his
girlfriend - wife today -, in a saloon in São Paulo, Brazil. Nowadays, he runs
the renowned Red Door Salon and SPA - Red Team Image Beauty & Style
Consulting, along with his wife, Tânia Britts Trindade. He holds a degree in
Administration and Law, with a graduate degree in Marketing, an MBA in Fashion
Management, and several other specialization courses such as Entrepreneurship,
New Business Development and Visual Thoughts for Fashion.
He is recognized in the universe
of beauty for his long history of innovation, which includes titles such as
"King of Straightening" and "King of Curls", both awarded
by "Veja" magazine in 2001 and 2010 respectively. The development of
his creativity is fruit of experiences in several countries where he has
studied in the most renowned beauty schools such as Vidal Sassoon, Tony Guy,
LLongueras, and Franck Provost.
Today, following his creative
trajectory, he dedicates himself to the concept of applied visagism - an art
that aims to harmonize and enhance the personal image, based on a
"research analysis", applied to physical structures, lifestyle, and beauty
of the individual.
In order to undertake this function, he
had the renowned Jean Claude Juillard as his teacher, improving his knowledge through
numerous important courses in France, England, Italy, Switzerland, Israel,
Germany, United States, and Brazil. His work in the area received repercussion
after winning popular vote by the Brazilian magazine “Cabelos & Cia” for "Visagist
of the Year" and best hair stylist in 2012.
He gave classes in the undergraduate and
graduate courses in Visagism and Personal Image Building at Anhembi Morumbi
University. He currently teaches the course of Projects in the graduate school
of fashion at the Centro Universitário Belas Artes in São Paulo. With his experience
in the area of Beauty and Management, Robson also gives classes for Senac
students, presenting lectures, workshops, and shows throughout Brazil and abroad.
Introduction
Many people are unhappy with their
appearance. Even in these situations, you should know that it is possible to
find your best look, from the clothes to the perfect hair, adopting attitudes
that will take your self-esteem to the heights, and will influence your
personal and professional trajectory in life.
Visagism In Practice - A Coaching for Your Life!
All you need to know (and do) to feel
good in the mirror and with yourself!
• your style, your clothes, shoes,
handbags, and accessories;
• face types, harmonization, and behavior;
• perfumes that work with you;
• from the haircut to the hair color;
Looking Without Fear (The Five Secrets)
With so many choices and products
available in the beauty and clothing market, do you really know what suits you
best? After all, what is the point of knowing the hits in fashion if you do not
know how to use this arsenal in your favor?! First you need to learn about your
true image; how to make peace with the mirror, to feel good.
The First Secret: Facing the Mirror
It is never enough to remember
that self-image is the vision we have of ourselves. It turns out that not
everyone has a true consciousness about it. To really learn about it, you have
to observe yourself; just as experts in visagism would do. It has to be some
sort of an X-ray (internal and external) that provides a three-dimensional view
of you - height, width, and depth. To take our first step you must:
• reserve some time in your agenda (few
hours to dedicate to yourself);
• face a full-length mirror to look at
yourself from different angles;
• note the shape of your face: Round,
square, rectangle, triangle, diamond... See the lines, touch your face, and
feel the bony structure;
• perceive the details: Are your eyes
separated or together? How is your eyebrow, your nose, your mouth? How are your
teeth?
• analyze how your skin and hair look like
- are they healthy? Does your haircut match with you?
• what about your body? Is your neck long
or short? Are your shoulders wide or narrow? Is your belly dry or bulging? Also
check your butt and legs;
• examine your hands, feet and nails; make
an X-ray of your feet that are our base, because they support our body.
Take a close look at the entire set...
• Is your silhouette balanced? Take off
your clothes and look at yourself without prejudice. Is your abdomen "too
big" compared to the legs? Are your shoulders the same size as your hip,
or are they larger or smaller than it? Realize and get to know your whole body.
It Is Time to Play!
The discovery of our look and
possibilities that can bring good and fun moments!
Attention, women!
• pass lipstick halfway down the lips and
see the difference in your image. Try different shades, and see which one you
like the most;
• clip your hair to see how it would look like
if it was shorter. Then brush it to one side to see how it would change your image;
• try different clothes: Tighter, loose, and
shorter;
• put on a heeled shoe or a sandal, and
then stand barefoot.
Now excuse me, it is men's turn:
• examine your look with half the beard shaved
and the other half intact;
• leave your hair unkempt and comb it with
a good gel to see the difference;
• wear tighter, loose, and comfortable
clothes; dare to try!
• tuck your shirt into your pants with a
belt and then leave it out; notice the difference between one look and another.
Understand that small things bring major
changes, and realize how you feel about them.
Warm or Cool Skin?
Basically, skin is classified in warm or
cool, according to the Color Key System created in the 1930’s by the painter
Robert Dorr. There are several ways to find out if your skin is warm or cool;
one of the simplest one is: in the light of day, take a good look at your skin
– it should be clean, and without any product applied. If it gets bright, oily,
and reflective naturally, your skin is warm. If it is opaque, matte, dry, and
grayish, your skin is cool. The skin is subdivided into white, black, and yellow.
What to Do After This Analysis?
You can assemble a special color chart
with customized shades for clothing, makeup, and accessories in general. So you
will be able to produce a harmonious and beautiful look, minimizing small
imperfections.
If your skin is warm, wear cool clothing
parts; if it is cool, wear warm-toned clothing parts.
But it goes without saying that we can
all use all colors; what changes in fact is the intensity of the color -
lighter, darker, more or less vibrant (balanced).
Face to Face
There are seven primary face shapes,
each one with its characteristics, both physical and behavioral. Do you want to
know which one is yours? Neutralize your hair, leaving your image free to
observe the shapes and structures of your face. Sit in front of the mirror, and
observe:
Round: Is rounded, that is, with no
defined angles.
Behavior - Tends to be sociable and
emotive, but acts in a logical way.
Square: Features long forehead and broad
jaw.
Behavior - It acts with the brain, it
hardly follows an impulse.
High Rectangle: Narrow and elongated,
has a bigger distance between forehead and chin.
Behavior - Adept of modernity and
balance.
Low Rectangle: Wide and short, has a
shorter distance between forehead and chin.
Behavior - Extroverted, has strong
personality, and is very connected to fashion.
Low Triangle: Narrower forehead
and protruding jaw.
Behavior - It is emotional and
sensitive. Appreciates nature.
High Triangle (or inverted): Forehead
and cheekbones are slightly larger than the jaw.
Behavior - Sociable and determined.
Diamond: Forehead and jaw are narrower
and protruding cheekbones.
Behavior - Has strong personal style.
Do the "broom test" to find
out what is your body biotype:
In front of the mirror, hold two
broomsticks vertically, each one on each shoulder. Pay attention to the details
and confirm your type. The broomsticks should follow your shape.
Hourglass: Shoulders and hips have
similar measurements, but the waist is well marked and narrow.
Round: Abdomen and waist are much wider.
Rectangle or Tubular: Shoulders,
waist, and hips have the same width. It is usually long and thin, without many
curves or volumes.
Low Triangle: Shoulders and trunk
are narrower than the hips.
Inverted Triangle: Shoulders are wider
than the hips and the legs are thin.
The
Second Secret: Opening the Closet
After checking the shapes and appearance
of your body, it is time to see how your choices and purchases (clothes, shoes,
accessories, makeup, perfume, and even items for skin and hair care) have
favored or compromised your look.
Notice the colors that appear.
With What Style Should I Go?
Originally, everyone manifests three
styles, but one is predominant. Discover yours! Classic or traditional:
Discreet, serious, and conservative.
Female Costume: Clothing parts that do
not model the body, with discrete colors and prints, and few details.
Male Costume: Usually the hair is slicked
back with gel, because this look guarantees a reliable image. Likes to keep
straight lines.
Creative: Innovative, original, and
independent.
Female Costume: Rustic and ethnic pieces,
overlapping clothing, different colors, and prints; everything in the same
look. Loves customization.
Male Costume: Bold and sexy, usually
uses spiked hair with gel, or a cut that looks good anyway, but always with a
boldness touch.
Elegant: Chic, refined, and successful.
Female Costume: High quality items with
sophisticated fabrics and monochromatic colors with few details, impeccable cut
and trim.
Male Costume: As in the female example,
the man who adopts this style prefers high quality items with sophisticated
materials, and sober and classic colors.
Sporty: Practical. Enjoys dressing in a
jovial and free way.
Female and male costumes: Comfortable,
functional pieces with natural fabrics. Usually carry backpack and wear
sneakers. The girls wear more flat sandals and the guys love sneakers.
Modern or Urban: Fashion, original, and
independent. Loves to draw attention and uses what is in the shop windows and
magazines.
Female and male costumes: Structured
clothes, intense contrasts, geometric prints. They love handbags and shoes that
are fashionable. They appreciate modern watches and gadgets like tablets and
cell phones.
Sexy: Seductive. Likes to show off and
be desired.
Female costume: Clothing and
fabrics that mark the body necklines, transparencies, and animal print together
with extravagant accessories and heels.
Male costume: Tighter jeans, blend
of colors, lighter-trimmed fabrics and V-neck t-shirts, for example. Being sexy
to him is all about his clothes with perfect trim and some pieces from fashion stylists.
Romantic: Delicate gestures.
Female costume: Subtle colors, textures,
and shapes; wears pieces with lace, ties, ribbons, and floral prints. Its
handbags and shoes always have a detail such as a lace or flower. Loves pearls.
Male costumes: Visually free,
carefree. Wears jeans and twill pants looking for comfort. It prefers floral
and light prints for shirts, and enjoys informal shoes, sneakers, slippers, and
vests.
Men’s Visual
Not only by the set of features of the
face and style can we evaluate the image of a person. Even more than women –
since they rely on procedures and artifices such as hairstyles to enrich their
look –, men are totally dependent on their haircut. And this haircut can be something
much more than a complement to the personal image. After all, the hair makes us
company 24 hours a day, and cannot be changed every time!
Profile: Analytical, objective, and
committed.
Men who work in areas that involve
logical reasoning with certain coldness, such as professionals in management
and financial areas, can benefit from a square-shaped cut. The contours at 90º
angle suggest control and perfectionism. In order to not become tedious or
transmit stiffness, the fringe may be lighter being partially torn.
Profile: Bold, sexy.
If the idea is to look bold, the
spiked haircut with gel will do the job. Without exaggeration, the random movement
is irregular and helps to create the image of a person who is always in search
of news. But the style only works until a certain age, then, it is better to
assume a slightly more traditional look; that is, accompanying the desire for
corrections of the face.
Profile: Intellectual, focused, and
warrior.
The tuft is a classic. Without
being too high or fussy, it fits very well for a rising executive. The tuft
reinforces the idea of intellectualized seriousness and charm, as well as
leadership and control. To emphasize these characteristics, straight lines are
important. And the hair should be well aligned to convey stability, good sense
of organization, and reliability.
Profile: Creative, cool, and
communicative.
Entrepreneurs need an extra dose
of creativity and security; they should invest in a look that breaks stiffness
and, at the same time, shows flexibility. Therefore, the cut should not be too
regular. The longer hair gives a more stripped and adventurous air. It is a
style that is widely adopted by restless and provocative leaders.
Profile: Classic/mature/serious, but
conqueror.
The entire hair slicked back with gel
ensures a refined and reliable image. It is the classic image of a probable
leader/chief. You can have it smooth or gently wavy, with the lines straight,
or aligned with slight length. Be careful not to overdo the amount of product
when slicking. Movement with a certain texture can make it look better. When
used in excess, the spray, ointment, gel, or wax makes the hair loaded, looking
dirty or apparently heavy.
Your Perfume Vs. Your Skin
The perfume is so remarkable that people
usually remember you because of it. It can attract or drive away, you know?
Does the chosen fragrance match your personality? What do you want to convey
with your perfume? Think about it.
ATTENTION!
Do not buy a perfume that works on
someone else. After all, eating habits and degree of perspiration, among other
factors, can influence the aroma.
Always test it on your skin. But avoid
doing this after heavy, spicy meal or after workout. Spray on your skin and
wait an hour to feel the definitive result. Avoid experiencing more than three perfumes
on the same day, so you do not get confused.
Keep the bottle away from light, heat,
and moisture, so its components are not affected. In general, after opened, the
perfume can last two years with its essence intact.
Where you should apply the perfume?
Strategic areas are the nape, behind the knees, and in the middle of the arms.
Spray the fragrance on the palm of your hands and spread it on your body as
well.
The Third Secret: Practicing detachment.
Think of the annual cleaning to empty
your closet of everything that is not being used. This “general cleaning,”
which is a way to make the energy flow and room for the new (as the oriental Feng
Shui technique says), is also an opportunity to discover new uses for things.
But it does not only include unnecessary objects that are in the bathroom and
in the closet; it also applies to the negative thoughts such as 'there is
nothing good in me,' that hinder our lives. Reflect about it. And if you find
out you have too many of them, try changing the pattern. Optimism now!
Happy Ending
After the cleaning you come across
boxes and bags full of clothes, shoes, and cosmetics that were not being
used... Find a useful purpose for these things! Everywhere there are several
entities that receive donations. It is worth searching for it on the Internet. Sustainable
Planet is a Brazilian website with good ideas. Access their page: http://planetasustentavel.abril.com.br
The Fourth Secret: Analyzing gestures.
The way you walk, sit, and even comb
your hair tells a lot about you and about everyone. The posture of legs and
feet, for example, can reveal emotional characteristics such as aggressiveness,
introversion, flexibility, or even our innermost intentions. This is because,
according to psychology studies, the farther away from the brain a body part is
positioned, the less awareness we have of what it is doing. Example? The
American psychologist Paul Ekman, an expert on emotions and expressions of the
body, has discovered that the movement of legs and feet increases when the
person is lying.
Notice how your gestures are. And then
learn what they mean.
Revealing Attitudes
Body movements manifest ways of acting:
Foot forward, facing one direction -
Points the 'target': Either the person you are interested or the nearest exit. Foot
behind: Shows disinterest and distrust.
Legs apart - Typically a male gesture,
but not exclusive to them: Domination.
Crossed legs - If they are apart
they reveal an open and dominant attitude; crossed means defense or submission.
They point out negative emotions and insecurity, and induce others to react in
the same way. Anyone who has a habit of crossing legs and arms hardly admits
the characteristic anxiety of this gesture, and does not become emotionally
involved in conversations.
Coiled legs - Placing the top of one foot
around the other leg shows insecurity. At attention position - Formal, almost
military posture; exhibits neutrality in the subjects.
American figure four - Crossing
the leg with the ankle over the knee is a sign of a competitive person. If your
hands are holding your knee, you're stubborn.
Locked ankles - Under the chair or
not, it reveals repressed emotions, doubt, or fear of something.
Eye on Feet
Standing or moving, if they are...
...Parallels - You are more balanced and
orderly as the food you eat.
...Inward - You show introspection. Your
menu has mostly vegetables.
...Outward - Tendency to aggressiveness
and being practical. Consume more animal food than vegetables.
Tell Me the Way You Walk
The way we swing our arms as we walk
gives an idea about our personality or the message we want to convey to others.
Notice how the kids move quickly, bringing their arms back and forth because of
the speed. This way is also widely used by public figures who intend to express
the image of youth.
Other moves:
Lean forward? Usually agrees, but is
always suspicious.
Move freely? Adaptable; feels at home in
any environment.
Do you look to the floor constantly?
Introverted.
Seems to slide? Acts like a cat,
creeping in. Does not answer questions, but loves to make them!
Always looking up? Adept of naturalness.
Short and determined steps? Possessive
and faithful.
Combing Through
When our hands move our hair (intuitive
gesture) it gives personality and style tips (non-verbal language). Stand in
front of the mirror and undo your hair in the opposite direction of its
movement. Then sit down and comb it. Repeat it as you move your hands into the
hair and observe. Here are the possible results of these radical maneuvers:
Exposes more face than hair -
Extroverted, rational, and organized; wear practical clothes.
Keeps the hair close to the face –
Mysterious; uses hair as protection.
Hands touch the back of the neck - Does
not give much importance to the hair. Pays more attention to the body; enjoys
sensual clothes.
Hands give volume to the hair – Does not
appreciate the right lines, tight clothes, and rigid fabrics.
Moving the hair without definite
direction - Creative, instinctive, enjoys changing costumes.
Always brush the hair in the same way -
Despite the dynamism, prefers classic costumes.
The Fifth and Ultimate Secret: Taking
Action
Now that you know yourself from head to toe,
and learned what certain attitudes and habits can convey to others, it is time
to use and abuse the tools employed by visagists to create a harmonious look.
It is worth remembering that all this knowledge does not substitute the
know-how of a specialist in the area, but it is the first step for you to make
peace with the mirror, raise your self-esteem, and love yourself more and more.
The Costume: Wearing Your Body
You already identified your silhouette -
if you still have questions, repeat the "broom test". Learn how to
choose pieces that value shapes, hide imperfections, and guarantee a unique
style.
Hourglass
How it is - The famous acoustic guitar
format is characterized by thin waist, and shoulders and hips with similar
measurements. No corrections needed. The biggest tip is to mark your waist with
belts and bands, and avoid over-tight or loose clothing that unbalances the
perfect nature. Draw attention to the face, neck, and shoulders. Men and women:
Monochromatic colors give a feeling of stretching.
Oval or Round
How it is - Characteristic of those that
are overweight. Usually have short or wide legs and neck, rounded shoulders,
bulky arms, little or no waist, and bulging belly. For these cases, the tip is
to wear blazers, cardigans, and open knits that create a vertical line in the
center of the body. Longer pieces, such as shirts that go beyond the waistline
are also welcome. V-necklines divert attention from the edges and draw the eyes
to the center of the body. Men: Pants cannot be pleated in order to not create
volume in unwanted places. Pieces with waist in place, straight cut, and the bar
touching the instep are ideal as they create an illusion of stretching.
Rectangle or Tubular
How it is - No waist, shoulders and
hips of similar measurements because it causes the impression of a straight
body with no curves. Against this effect, the trick is to use pieces that make
the body curvier and mark the waist, besides highlighting the shoulders, the
center of the body, and the face, valuing the thinner parts, such as arms and
legs. Good choices: Shirts to tie around the waist, pierced, coats and blazers,
skirts and flared dresses, straight pants and pantaloons. For men: Shirt tucked
into the pants, and belts is primordial (creates harmony in the visual).
Triangle
How it is – This is the classical
Brazilian silhouette, characterized by narrow shoulders and hips. Balance the
shapes with apparel that visually reduces the hip size and enhances the upper
body, such as shoulder, lap, neck, and face (neck scarf, for example).
Suggestions: Loose pieces, straight cuts. Blouses with horizontal necklines,
like Peter Pan collar, and also bulky collars. Men and women: Never wear
blazers and knit at the hip height; the right measure is below it.
Inverted triangle
How it is - Shoulders and back are
larger than the hip. Usually, the legs are thin. The goal here is to minimize the
shoulder width by balancing and valuing the hips volume, drawing more attention
to the face, neck, and lap. For both men and women, the dark and neutral colors
are better for top piece, while the most vivid shades look great on the bottom.
They should prefer pants with wide cuts and flares, pantaloons, round and flare
skirts, and miniskirts with volume are the best apparel. In the same way, shirts
with straight and smooth sleeves, and wide straps and round, or V necklines,
and long jacket or coat covering the butt. Run away from front-only pieces that
evidence the shoulders. Avoid tank-type or too tight t-shirts, which show arms
disproportionate to the visual.
Hair: Face Frame
Some rules can help you find a
haircut style and hairstyle that match your type and personality. Observe the
signs and find the ideal look.
Check out what to do if your face is...
Round
Very common type in Asian and
indigenous groups. The person with this format is usually emotional, sociable,
and logical. Classic or traditional, she likes to look in the mirror and
recognize herself. It is a type in which different lengths and textures are
allowed.
Square
Originally from northern Europe, it
often appears in North Americans and Brazilians of the South. Characteristic of
logical people, who act with the brain, are serious and avant-garde. Natural curls or produced with the help of babyliss
and hair curlers on the sides, at the height of the jaw, balance the format.
High Rectangle
Also typical of Northern Europe, it
represents the person concerned with the form and who likes changing a little.
It can be classic or modern style. The suggestion for this type is to adopt a
look that provides volume by widening the face. Cut the hair at the shoulder
height and with side layers.
Low Rectangle
It originates in southern Europe, such
as Portugal. It is also common in Northern Brazil. The person with this format
usually has strong personality and is extroverted. As the neck is generally
shorter, the look should be harmonized by exploring the shoulders. Therefore,
if they are wide, the base of the hair should be rounded to decrease its size.
In the case of narrow shoulders, the base of the hair should be straight to
give them volume.
High Triangle
It is a type commonly found among the
Brazilian population, especially in the Center-South region. This is the closest
format to the aesthetically perfect: The oval. Characteristic of social and
extroverted person with a strong ego, who accepts changes well. The balance of
this form is conquered with a defined cut at the chin height.
Low Triangle
Present in large part of the South
American continent, such as Paraguay, Chile, Venezuela, and Colombia.
Generally, those who have this type are more sensitive and emotional. The
purpose is to lower the chin and enlarge the forehead. In this case, voluminous
curls are perfect.
Diamond
Found all over the world because of
racial miscegenation. With a personal and striking style, this person demands
its taste to be respected. To balance the shapes, protruding cheekbones, and
narrow forehead and jaw, one possibility is to give more volume at the top of
the hair and leave the sides heavier.
At the Right Tone
To determine the colors that match
you and provide a harmonic look, you must determine your skin tone. Here are
three possibilities:
Hair lighter than skin - use a
tone that matches your look. Warm skin: Opt for cool hair; Cool skin: Warm
color for hair.
Hair in the same skin tone - you
need to strengthen your look! In this case, skin and hair should have the same
color: Warm or cool color.
Hair darker than skin - your goal
should be to enhance the natural traits. For example, light skin, dark hair; skin
with freckles, copper hair.
What is Visagism?
It is the study of the shapes and
proportions of a person from head to toe. It deals with the face as a work of
art, taking into account all the details (forms and structures): Eyebrows,
eyes, nose, mouth, face shape, neck, and shoulder size. It is based on a
three-dimensional view (height, width, and depth). Visagism can be applied to
personal image, to companies’ image, or to the creation of characters. It acts
in the most diverse areas: From fashion to decoration.
The Work of the Visagist
The visagist is the professional who
guides the person to create a harmonious image, helping to find the most
appropriate appearance for the message it want to express. In this process, the
expert goes beyond the physical aspects and also analyzes the behavior, style,
and non-verbal language transmitted by the customer. Establishes a
multidisciplinary work, being able to be extended to the areas of beauty (hair
and makeup), plastic surgery, dentistry, architecture and design, and nutrition
among many others.
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